Pulsar Bike runin Guide

Hi all, here is the pulsar runin guide. Infact this runin guide can be used for others bikes as well. Your suggestions and experiences sharing for all are welcome.

( ACKNOWLEDGMENTS : Dr. Vistasp Sethna from Poona, former owner of a first-lot Pulsar 180, presently riding a Bullet 500 and credits to xBhp member tiger for the posting)


STARTING TECHNIQUE:

For morning starts, use the kick + choke (leave the choke for a slow count of 30 and then close the choke decrementally till the engine is firing smoothly).

Its a good practice to first (with the ignition in the OFF position) depress the clutch and kick 5 times for the oil in the sump to circulate slightly.

Do not start the Bike when the headlight switch is set to ON or even if the dome/pilot lamps only position is set, as it may cause both/either of your bulbs to fuse due to surge of current.

Keep the clutch depressed for some time alternating with depressing/releasing the clutch for the oil to flow between the plates.

Ride smoothly without any sudden acceleration for the first couple of kilometers, then open up.


RIDING TECHNIQUE (during and after run-in):

Below 60 kmph in first 1000 km and below 70 kmph for the next 1000 km (1000-2000)

Rule of thumb - during running in, never race the engine rpm to beyond half of the rpm range available (about 4000 rpm in the first 1000 km and can go as high as 5000-5500 rpm in the next 1000 km)

Sudden non-sustained bursts are OK as long as the rpm does not shoot beyond control - many even say that such bursts in the second 1000 km (with increasing frequency after about 1500 km) actually help to "open out" the engine and the usable rev-range better.

NEVER ride at a sustained speed/rpm for any length of time EVEN IF you are below the accepted limits - keep changing the RPM and speed by changing the throttle position at short intervals to prevent glazing of your piston, and also getting the various moving parts bedded down nicely at different speeds. What this does is makes the Bike smooth and the power delivery seamless across the entire power band rather than just at one particular speed.

During the run-in period while u adhere to the said 4000 rpm max and speed limits, it is necessary that every gear be taken through the entire usable rpm range. After warm up for a minute or two (idle rpm will be about 1000 rpm) and a slow, gradual and steady moving through the gears, after a while, a couple of kms down the road, take your Bike through the rpm range (up to say 3700 during running in) for ALL gears. Do it as often as possible (the urban traffic and signals will help you in this). This does help to run-in your Bike better.

There is no problem in going for long rides, but try not to run the engine non-stop for more than 25-30 minutes - preferably take a butt break, smell the roses, look around and then start off again.

Gears are very tricky things to bed in properly so preferably (at least during the run in) do not let someone else ride your Bike - even if he's very gentle, his shifting technique will be different from yours and you'll be able to "feel" something amiss in the gears once you ride the Bike again.

Make a proper positive effort to shift gears, just a nudge won’t do (please don’t bang your foot on them if they seem tight – ease off and try again – it always works!).

Remember, like all other moving parts, your disc brake needs to be run-in too for proper functioning at all speeds – practice using your disc at progressively higher speeds in an open area without traffic. When using the disc, remember that the handle should be straight ahead (never in a turn) and there should not be any gravel on the road, or you WILL skid. Get the FEEL of the discs and you can then use them with greater confidence.

After completing the running in, don't start rippin' ur Bike at 100+ immediately (a commemorative "ton" is a must though just to appease the adrenaline Gods!!!!), get your Bike used to incremental increases in speed in multiples of 5 kmph and then move to the next higher speed.


THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:

Preferably wash your Bike thoroughly once a week and check for any leaks, loose fastenings, etc. Do not splash water onto the Bike (especially the top of the tank) with a mug or a hosepipe, either spray wash (pressure) or else wash with a wet cloth.

IMPORTANT: In the event that water does get into the tank through the filler cap or into the carb bowl, the Bike will sputter and die on you a number of times afterwards. Water being heavier than petrol will collect in the carb bowl and can be drained. PROCEDURE: First shut off the petcock (to prevent draining expensive petrol in the process!). Then loosen the screw seen immediately below the carb bowl (the lowest carb screw looking at it from the left side of the bike) and let water/petrol from the bowl drain out thru the transparent pipe leading out from the bottom of the carb. After the drainage has stopped, FIRST tighten the screw and THEN put on the petcock.

Use a car shampoo to wash your bike, not ordinary soap or any other household detergents that will dull the finish of the paint. Car shampoos with Carnauba wax are a good idea (Formula 1, Waxpol, etc.)

Keep an eye open for any leaks around the top of the engine and near the gearbox (excess chain oil also causes an oil slick to develop on the chain cover). Also look at the ground beneath the Bike every morning to check for any oil spill (WARNING: After an oil change, make sure the drain nut has been properly tightened).

Malfunctioning switches/electricals (possible problem areas - front brake switch and starter).

Wash your tyres and top up the air pressure once a week and slowly rotate and inspect each tyre to look for cuts, cracks, embedded sharp objects, and also pebbles in the treads which should be removed.

While washing the wheels/tyres, check for loose/broken/bent spokes (check wheel trueness once in 3 months or so, especially if riding on bad roads or have hit a pothole hard/at speed).

While washing, make sure that the drain holes in the filler cap area and under the silencer are not clogged.

Get your chain-slack adjusted and chain lubricated preferably every 800 km.

Check battery fluid level at least once a month and keep an eye on the brake fluid level too (though that's just precautionary).

Make it a habit to shut off the petcock whenever you park your Bike so that it becomes instinctive after a while. Adding an in-line petrol filter of the Caliber is a good idea (in between the petcock and the carb).

Keep the Bike on center stand if it is going to be parked for a long time. Also, do not park the Bike on side-stand on a slight slop as the Pulsar has a tendency to slide forward off the side stand and fall down many a times.


PUNCTURES:

When you detect a puncture, rotate the wheel to try and find the nail and remove it to prevent further damage to the tyre/tube, multiple punctures etc.

Loosen the base check nut of the valve so that the valve has room to move and does not get uprooted from the tube while wheeling your Bike to the puncture walla.

Do NOT sit on the Bike or ride it to the puncture walla. If you must, start the bike, put it in gear and slowly “ride” it to the puncture wall, WALKING ALONGSIDE.

Make sure that the puncture is repaired with a pucca heat cured patch and not the ready-made circular patches, which have a tendency to start leaking in summer/hot conditions.

After the puncture is repaired, make sure that the tyre is seated properly onto the rim by checking that the line all along the sidewall is equidistant at all points from the edge of the rim. In case of improper seating, you will feel a wobble/puncture feeling while riding and should get this checked.

Also make sure the puncture walla coats the insides of your tyre with talcum powder and replaces the rubber patti over the center of your rim if worn out.

Always have the black rubber caps over the valves as a second line of defense. Make sure the puncture wall replaces the split quarter pins while refitting the wheel.

IMPORTANT: In case of a front tyre puncture, be very careful that no one presses the front brake lever while the wheel is out to prevent the disc brake calipers from coming together, making it impossible to refit the front wheel. The only way to take them apart is to bleed the brake fluid and it is a complex task to be done only at an authorized service station. As a precaution, you can put something between the front brake and the handle grip. For example a small spanner between the lever and the accelerator rotor, to hold them apart.

Pulsar 180 DTsI MODs

Suitable Tires :
Front : Battlax BT39SS 90/80-17M/C 46S
Rear: BattLax Bt39 110/70-17 M/C 54H

Suitable K&N air filter :
R 1060

Sprocket gear :
Front/Rear : 16/38 or 17/39
( Take note of the mounting holes, different version has different nos of holes )

Pulsar 180DTsI UG3

Bike Basic Information :
(Original autor : Spai_duhz)

in a nutshell so far.
Jargons...
KM/L - Kilometers per Liter (of petrol. duhz.)
KM/H - Kilometers per Hour
FC - Fuel Consumption
EO- Engine Oil


The pulsar is a fierce looking yet economical bike that has relatively good acceleration, on stock settings. This makes it good for stop and go traffic in Singapore.

Able to hit 50KM/L if cruising at 80-90KM/H.
60KM/L possible if you ride at 70KM/H.

130KM/H top speed is possible on stock settings.

Please note however that FC and Top Speed is relative to the load of the bike. More loaded your bike, your FC will drop, and your top speed too.

FC is also linked to your average speed, as well as your load. Ride like a maniac with a loaded bike like me, and dont do a double take when you realize you only managed 28KM/L when you have a loaded side boxes and top box, as well as a bag on your shoulder, and going at 110KM/H average.

If speed is your thing, you can change rear sprocket to a smaller diameter one. If you are foolhardy enough, you can get thinner tires (just ask for sotong tires. the mech should know wtf u'r talking about). A more drastic measure to improve the acceleration even more would be to replace the standard mainjet to a larger one (from 1.0 to 1.25) and to install K&N air Filters. Installing the air filters will require cutting of the airbox, AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY. Change your mainjet and you will want to tune your bike. Bigger mainjet will make your bike run too rich. Never heard a backfire on a pulsar before. Dont want to be the first. Do at your own risk.

If control is more of your thing, then you will want to change the tires. The MRF Zappers are an ultra hard compound tires that will easily last for a few years. Likely than not you will have to discard the tires due to expiry date rather than them being worn. Being hard compound tires road grip will not be too good as compared to softer compound tires. Universal Motors gives an option for you to install Battlax tires instead of MRF Zappers. Was quoted quite cheap... however thats if you asked him to install the tires before taking the bike out of the shop. Good luck.

Irregardless if you want better control, higher top speed or even better FC, you will want to toss away the champion spark plugs that it comes stock with, and plug in iridium spark plugs. be it NGK or Denso, be it grade 8,9 or 10... just change it. Between the two brands and different grades, they perform the same. Higher grades perform better in colder countries, so i am inclined to believe that higher grades are easier from cold start.

If you wish the purchase the pulsar, but are baulking at the price that universal quoted you, Jalan Bukit Merah has a **** load of stores that carry the pulsars at a cheaper rate. Hidden costs can make you vomit blood though. Do your own homework.

3 types of pulsars on singapore roads.

V 1. Pulsar with old Bajaj logo. Its the one that the New Paper reviewed.
Spoke rims.
Metallic engine block and exhaust.
Old type enhaust. It does have exhausTEC, cept it sounds harsher somehow.

V 2. New logo. Beginning of the black pulsar series.
Sport rims.
Black engine block and exhaust.
new type exhaust. has some controversial holes drilled at certain parts. sounds less harsh than V 1.

V 2.2
Same as the above. Add engine kill switch.

V 3. Enter the most drastic cosmetic change... ever. Also known as UG3.
Sport rims. Black engine block and Exhaust.
Sharper design.
LED taillight.
Digital Speedometer, Fuel Level Indicator, and integrated Analog Tachometer
Auto cancelling signal lights (an annoyance, imho)

One last thing you should know if you are considering the pulsar is all the bad points. No bike is perfect.

1. Not fast. 180cc bike that tops at 130KM/H is rather pathetic to some.
2. Big and heavy. Not for the petit.
3. Expensive for a 2B bike. You can get a 2nd hand S4 Spec1 for the price of a brand new pulsar.
4. U'r gonna have to get used to the vibration.
5. I cannot stress enough. Vibrations.
6. Did i mention vibrations?
7. Oho. So you want third party parts. Dont waste your time at Jalan Bapok, Malaysia doesnt have any Malaysian pulsars on the road.
8. For the UG3, the fuel level indicator is bloody inaccurate.

For those who already have a pulsar... more likely than not you attended the DIY hazard light session. we had fun. yeaaaaaa.

Mantainance wise... what this "kamikaze pulsar rider" would reccomend is that irregardless of cheap EO or expensive EO, please change engine oil every 2K-2.5K Kilometers, the sooner the better. The Manual might list 1L EO per change... But I personally top up 1.2L every other week, and in between I top up another 0.2L of cheap EO. But then again i am a "kamikaze" rider, so the rest of you probably wont need to be so extreme in your engine oil change. :/

Thats basically all the important parts... for new people. for people who already have pulsars... will have to go into even deeper detail.